Palermo

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

We finally found out how to get around without using maps or our GPS; we took the train from Cefalu to Palermo and did not make a single wrong turn! Of course, it was the Italian train system (Trenitalia) and, in our experience was, by definition, late. But we did get to Palermo.

This is the capital of the region of Sicily and the largest city. It is another one of those cities that has had many rulers, from the Greeks through the Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, etc. and it was also heavily bombed in WWII. Palermo bears the marks of a mix of influences of all the previous rulers; the central district is a warren of narrow streets dating from Arab times crossed by a few wider but not very wide, main streets from the time of French rule. Palermo has a reputation somewhat like Naples and, given the historical Mafia influence here, the reputation is probably deserved. Beware of pickpockets and thieves on motor scooters and that sort of thing. We had no problems but encountered many dark alleys (a.k.a. streets) where we walked only because it was daylight.

Compared with Naples, I would say that Palermo is grungier but not as dirty if you know what I mean. Not as much garbage lying about (just dirt), very crowded, busy, and lots of lively markets. All in all, I enjoyed the place. The early morning sun changed to gray midday, but it fit the atmosphere of the part of the town we were in. It is not a picturesque place but there are many old “palaces” in various states of repair and everything looks like it is being fixed up.

We headed back to Cefalu after a few hours of wandering the streets of Palermo; the train arrived here only 30 min late for the one- hour trip. Trenitalia! The rain that had threatened earlier caught up with us after we arrived home and we had a dramatic, but brief downpour.

Early tomorrow, we drop the car, catch the plane from Palermo to Milan, where we should have some time to spend with Janie in the city during the afternoon, and then back to the US on Thursday.

Ciao!

Tom (with “improvements” by Mary Ellen)